![]() ![]() The way I knew what to do is because I have an official battery (cracked and beat up but still works albeit no charger) that has the specs on it. Yeah, I ran a 100 ft dummy roll through it and the lost sync light never comes on except for the first second after hitting the switch and the last second when turning it off (which it does even with the regular battery pack.) I think it's supposed to be 20VDC, although I might be wrong, which would put the power around the same as the Arri. Thank you to Zac for your help and advice.ĭoes the laptop power supply provide enough current to start the camera? I've never owned a CP-16 (although somehow I ended up with a Nikon-to-CP adapter in my parts bin: waiting for the day I get my hands on a CP-16R). ? - Electrical tape to wrap spacers in lying around the house ? - Red and Black 16 gauge solid wire lying around the house $1.04 - (2) 6-32 hole size wire connectors from ACE hardware $0.24 - (2) 3/8" x 6-32 cross tip screws from ACE hardware $1.12 - (2) 3/4" x 6-32 Aluminum Spacers from ACE hardware $3.49 - 2.1mm x 5.5mm DC jack chassis mount from Radio Shack $3.99 - Radio Shack 4"x2"x1" ABS case enclosure Here is my parts list and cost for those interested: It still wasn't cheap but much cheaper than paying $325 for one from Whitehouse WHEN they have one or paying $150 for a new battery and the same for a new charger. My main point of this post is as follows:ġ) Once I add a DC port to the other end of the case, what would be the best (cost as well as stability) way to connect the DC port wires to the hole where the pins will make contact?Ģ) Is there anyway where this same idea can be applied to make renewed battery packs so that people don't have to painstakingly track down old CP batteries, try to open them, and risk cracking them or dealing with old internal batteries?ģ) Is there any flaw in my plan as far as attaching 20V laptop batteries (like a universal per se) to the DIY dummy block that I am not forseeing?įor anyone who is interested, I have completed the DIY CP-16R AC adapter exclusive! I fired it up and it works like a charm! And what is even cooler is that it is all new parts and I don't have to rely on something built before I was born. However, the tightness of the power pins into the 7/64 holes makes for a nice and tight fit that will not come lose without a decent amount of effort. The enclosure is slightly undersized at 2" wide and 1" deep compared to 2 1/8" wide and 1 1/4" deep. Sliding this into the battery part worked beautifully as it clicks into place and doesnt move. It made two slight indentations that I could use to hole punch on and then drill. I purchased this $3.99 case from Radio Shack.Īnd I found the power pins distance by pushing hard against them with the case. Now, I am reviving that idea but I have a more realistic way of how this can be used. It did and it kept sync (at least according to the fact that the sync light never came on) This wasnt meant to actually be usable on set but just to see if it works. I had messed around with some mad scientist creations that involved alligator clips, etc, and I made a setup that could theoretically run the camera at the right voltage (20V) and supply more than enough current (3A) using a laptop power supply to a DC port that was soldered to two wires that connected to alligator clips to attach to the power pins on the side of the camera body. I always wanted an indoor supply that didn't need to be charged because so much of what I shoot is interiors anyway. In 2013 when I owned my other CP16, I only had batteries and a charger. I cannot find these things anywhere and I don't want to pay that much anyway so here is the birth of my current project of which I would love input and advice. Problem is, before I found this out, I had already sold my "dummy block" AC adapter for $150. Suffice to say, i am pretty much sure that the camera problems are fixed. He walked me through how I could fix the problems myself and how to save money doing so. The next day I got an email back telling me to call Paul. I listed the parts on eBay BEFORE talking to Paul Hilman like I should have. I, in true impulsive and short tempered fashion, was ready to sell my gear and go digital. I had mentioned previously about how my camera test footage came back crap due to smeared footage and light leak.
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